Showing posts with label New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 RTW. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 RTW. Show all posts

Sunday, 6 January 2013

New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 RTW: Dennis Basso




Dennis Basso is really a furrier. He’s been slowly expanding outward to augment that, which is why it was inevitable he’d go full on evening wear sooner or later. But the evening wear was so gaudy, so in your face, so unmissable, that the furs ended up taking a backseat.
I’m not saying I don’t love this dress (which looks like a Christmas present) but I couldn’t help but ask: “Where is the fur?”
The fur appeared, here and there. Perhaps it was the lightweight nature of the dresses, that there were only fur caplets to be seen? Or perhaps there’s more fur here, just hiding under the water fall of fringe?
When wear short tulle skirts, I guess one should worry about the coats. I worried that only one of them was a fur drape. Is Basso worried his signature coats are becoming passe in the face of global warming?
Now there’s the sort of fur I was looking for….on the left. The order of things also left me confused–the big dresses usually come at the end of the show, and here Basso put them squarely in the middle, lessening their impact.
These dresses themselves (fur and not furred) are destined to be red carpet hits…for those looking to emulate an early 60s feel from Mad Men. The old fashioned look of the whole show seemed studied.
And then, just as you wonder how stuck in an era the show was going to be, a violently violet gown cut to there with the most now purple fur jacket ever steps out. And then the audience is confused. Is this about the timeless old fashioned styles that go with fur? Or is it just random pretty?
I have my issues with fringe, it’s true, but this use of it, in random panels that give a sense of water are mostly a nice touch…and long as the wearer is standing still. I just fear what might happen once she stands up from a folding theater seat at the opera.
Basso’s closing look of a long bubble shaped ankle baring skirt was certainly one of the highlights. Let’s hope his Fall collection next season finds room for the thing we know him best for.

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